Carlton's Corner eZine
Community Corner - 03/19/05 Publisher: Cathy Carlton
Installing Ceramic Tile
Ceramic Tile brings a texture, richness and color to a room
that Linoleum has yet to truly mimic. Tile floors can be
installed in any room, however they are most frequently seen
in Bathrooms and Kitchens. I particularly like them in
entryways, where they serve as a transition point from the
outside to large carpeted or hardwood floored rooms. They
make for easy clean up and are impervious to water damage.
Tile Types
Ceramic tiles come in two basic types. Glazed and Porcelain.
Glazed holds up the best for heavy traffic areas and
porcelain works well in bathrooms. Porcelain is typically
more expensive, so consider your budget and the size of the
area you want to tile. Tiles also come in many shapes and
sizes. For flooring, however, I would suggest using larger
tiles up to 12" x 12".
Underlayment
For proper installation the base foundation or the
underlayment is critical. Typically it consists of ¾" to 1
¼" of plywood. Tiling over Linoleum or existing tile is also
feasible, as long as it is solid. I also recommend when
Tiling over Linoleum that you first apply ring nails or
screws 6" on center over the entire area. Tiles can also be
installed directly over Concrete. Make sure in all cases
that the floor is level and free of dust and debris prior to
installation. There are leveling compounds that you can
apply before applying tile if necessary.
Preparing the Site
Before actually installing the tile, it is best to lay it
out in the room to see how it will look. Pay close
attention to how it runs out toward the walls, in the
corners and next to cabinets, tubs and toilets. The trick
is to lay the tile out such that stubby tiles do not show up
in highly visible spots. Once you have completed this, make
two marks with a pencil outlining the most centered tile.
These lines should be perpendicular to each other. Also
take note of the wall that is most visible from all the
others. Now remove the tiles. Next draw or snap a line
perpendicular to this wall that is in line with one of the
marks you made on the floor. Then, draw a perpendicular line
to this first line. This second line should be centered
with the first line and fairly in line with the second mark
you made on the floor. Once you have completed this task,
re-layout some of the tiles along the perpendicular lines
and observe if they run out in a way that will limit cutting
and stubbed tiles. Once this is completed, remove the tiles
and prepare for the actual installation.
Installing the Tile
Again, make sure the area is free of dirt and dust. Next
apply the ceramic adhesive or mastic to the flooring,
starting in the center, where the two perpendicular
reference lines intersect. Apply enough material to cover
6-10 square feet, if no cuts are required. If cuts are
required limit the amount of mastic application to about 2-4
square feet. When applying the mastic, first spread it
with the flat end of the trowel. Lay it on relatively thick,
approximately 1/8" to 3/16"thick. Then turn the trowel
around and run the notched edge over it. This creates ridges
in the mastic that helps to hold the tile down more
securely. The larger the tile, the larger the notches
should be. For example, I use a ¼" notched trowel for 12" x
12" tiles.
Note: Only make up enough ceramic adhesive for 30 minutes,
as this material has the tendency to harden up rather
quickly.
Once the adhesive has been applied, begin installing the
tiles working from the center outward. On larger tiles you
should back butter them. Basically, apply a thin coating of
mastic to the back of the tile prior to laying it on the
floor. This will help ensure a good bond.
As you near the walls or edges of cabinets, tubs and
toilets, you will need to cut some of the tiles. I highly
recommend the use of a Wet-Saw. A Wet-Saw will allow you to
make very accurate cuts, both large and small. You will also
save money, as you will waste many fewer tiles with bad cuts
or broken tiles. Wet-Saws are not that expensive and once
you see your finished product you will certainly be
installing more tile. Wet-Saws can also be rented as a
cheaper alternative.
When applying Tiles, you may want to use Lugs. Lugs are
effectively spacers that come in various thicknesses. I
typically like to have no more than a ¼" space between the
tiles. Employing Spacers will ensure uniformity with your
tile spacing.
Grouting
After the Tile has been completely installed, allow it to
sit for 24-48 hours before applying grout and walking on it.
Grout comes in many different colors and is very easy to
install. Simply mix the grout with water or a special
bonding agent and apply with a rubber trowel. Run the trowel
on a bias when going over tile corners.
Once the grout has been applied, immediately wipe the tile
of excess grout, using a wet sponge and a bucket of water.
Wait 30 minutes and again wipe the tiles down of any
residual grout. Wait another 60 minutes and repeat. If grout
is left on the tiles to dry, you will have a great deal of
elbow work scraping it off.
Let the grout sit up for 24 hours and it is ready for use
and admiration.
About the Author:
Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with
building homes and additions to homes. His projects have
included: building a vacation home, building additions and
garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished
homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession have
been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager. Email
Mr. Donovan at
me_donovan@comcast.net or visit either his
website
http://www.homeadditionplus.com or blog site
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.
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